Times of London - St. Paul's

 June 20, 2024

St. Paul's Cathedral

The first question Winston Churchill would ask his advisors every morning after enduring another night of the London Blitz; "Does Saint Paul's still stand?"

The Luftwaffe, having lost the Battle of Britain which was fought for the domination of British airspace between July and September, 1940; changed tactics beginning September 7, 1940 and targeted London and civilian population centers, this terrifying prolonged attack known as the London blitz.

 

Despite popular myth that claims St. Paul's was never hit in the Blitz, it was. Several times. Volunteers would climb onto the roof of the 365 foot dome during the nightly bombing in London's war-time total black out and stand ready to shovel off the incendiary bombs that landed on St. Paul's. If they were at their station when a high explosive hit, they became a casualty.

Three high explosive bombs destroyed portions of the cathedral during the Second World War. A 9,000 pound bomb hit the steps in front of the church, but did not explode. When crews excavated the device, it was discovered that it was on a delayed fuse - set to go off at any moment. The officer in charge ordered his men to clear off as it was hauled up from its crater by a rope and loaded on the back of a lorry. He personally drove it to a swamp outside the city. He was awarded St. Georges Cross.

St. Paul, The Patron Saint of London

The landmark that we decided to devote our time to this day is the fifth church to be build on this, the highest hill in London. The fourth St. Paul's burned to a pile of ash and melted roofing lead in the Great fire of 1666. Christopher Wren designed this 365 ft to replace the previous one that had a steeple that stretched 550 feet above London.

The construction took 40 years and its design was to be in the fashion fitting to the ideals Protestant reformation worship; no ornate, paganesque statuary, no gaudy, tawdry paintings of papist grandeur. Plain, orderly symmetry devoted to the one True God, sans imagery invoking demigods of dubious saints.

We joined a tour and got well acquainted with the history and structure below, including the crypt. Notables such as Florence Nightingale, Alexander Fleming (discovered penicillin), King Aethelred 'The Unready' (Anglo-Saxon King 978-1013), Admiral Horatio Nelson (Won the Battle of Trafalgar, defeating French & Spanish navies in Napoleonic Wars), Duke of Wellington (Won the Battle of Waterloo defeating Napoleon himself) and Christopher Wren the Cathedral's architect himself.

Interior of St. Paul's 
Anglican Cathedral

A controversial monument added post
construction to St. Paul's -
Should the horse's ass really face the alter?

The Duke of Wellington

Florence Nightingale

The High Alter of the church was blown off by the Germans during the London Blitz, and in honor to the Americans who were desperately needed to fight on the side of Britain and especially in memory of those Americans who died in Britain's war effort, the rebuilt High Alter is now dedicated as the American Chapel in memory of those many Yanks. 

Facing the High Alter
The American Chapel
dedicated to American lives lost 
in aide to Britain, 1958

Stained glass behind the High Alter

St. Paul's 

After our guide had finished speaking about all that was around us in the crypt, we were turned out on our own. There are 518 steps that take the hearty-calved seer-of-sights up to the gallery level that circumscribes the dome of St. Paul's. We were up for the challenge. Way up as it turns out.

Sue rises to step 311 out of 518
to the Gallery above

Spiral stairs supported by the wall only

The dome of St. Paul's depicting the 
Life of St. Paul, patron Saint of London

Scenes from the life of St. Paul were added in muted tones long after completion of the 
intentionally plain Protestant Reformation sensibilities

Once we reached the upper gallery of the interior dome, we had the chance to slip through a narrow port to climb iron stairs to reach the second level ringing the dome on the exterior with a view of London. Needless to say, we took that chance.

Rising to the occasion
We climb to the mezzanine level
with a aerial view of London 

Looking across the face of St. Paul's 
from on high.

Up for another challenge? More narrow metal steps to get us to the tippy top of ol' St. Paul's.

Our panorama view from the dome of St. Paul's overlooking London from its highest topographical point. Awesome.

Time to descend.

I'm hungry. Lets descend all of those steps and find some supper. I think I know a place.