Scotland - I came for James Hutton, I stayed for John Muir

 June 27, 2024

Sue and I said our good byes in the morning to our son Grant, his wife Kaileen and our daughter, Inga. They were flying out of Edinburgh and back to their respective homes on the East and West Coasts of the States.

As for us empty-nesters; we had plans. We'd pick up a small car in Edinburgh and since we're not expected at our rental cottage in Gorebridge until after 15:00, we had a full day ahead of us for adventure.

The top of my list was to visit one of the best know locations in the history of geology; Siccar Point. Siccar Point, on the coast south of Edinburgh is where James Hutton, the Father of Modern Geology, found evidential proof of his concept of deep, geological time - the virtually unimaginable time needed for small processes happening uniformly over eons of deep time to change and transform the face of the world. James Hutton found the evidence that he needed in the angular unconformity where older Silurian rocks had been squeezed and tilted into vertical beds over a great expanse of time and then millions of years later, these beds of folded and twisted rock were eroded and then millions of year later a different kind of rock was laid down horizontally on top of the angled, distorted beds. The juxtaposition of these two distinct formations told of the great expanse of time needed for an old earth to form in this fashion. It was here that James Hutton found evidence that the earth was millions and millions of years old. Much older than anyone had here to fore believed. Siccar Point is a prime site for geologist to visit when they chance to get to Scotland.

But first, how about some lunch before we scramble down to Hutton's Unconformity at Siccar Point. I suggested that we find a town on the way to Siccar Point, a town on the coastline where we can amble about and find some lunch while looking out across the North Sea. My wife, looking at the map on her iPhone, suggested we stop in Dunbar. It fits the bill and our exit off of Highway A1 is coming up soon. 

We find ourselves on the main street of Dunbar, Scotland

I turned east toward Dunbar, the welcoming signs made sure that any visitors, such as ourselves, understood that Dunbar was the birthplace of John Muir. John Muir the founder of the Sierra Club, writer, philosopher, inventor, poet, wanderer and inspiration for the naturalist movement in the United States and subsequently the world. Well, we'll have to see this place of John Muir, I said to my sole passenger.

We found a parking place on the main avenue and wandered a few doors back to where the American and Scottish flags flew above the entrance to the home in which John Muir was raised. The sign advertised Free Admission. This is looking better all the time.

I stepped through the open door and was mildly greeted by a volunteer woman at the small desk in the front space of John Muir's home. I replied with an enthusiastic, "Hello!" 

Mark at the entrance to John Muir's boyhood home in Dunbar, Scotland.

She was set back momentarily, for the volume and vigor of such a response seemed to be uncommon in her experience. She immediately settled into the warmth of my pleasant nature, acknowledging the good spirit at which I had entered her museum. "I attended John Muir Junior High!" I proudly proclaimed. We smiled and we were all off to a jolly good start.

Another woman introduced herself and began to explain that we were welcomed to see further inside this 3-story residence. We wound our way up the stairs, familiarizing ourselves with the timeline of John Muir's life, achievements and works. Plenty of photos and quotes. Many of which were somewhat familiar to me, having grown up so close to Yosemite - a place synonymous with John Muir.

We finished our enlighten visit, had a further discussion with the volunteer about Muir and how he was much celebrated in America, but such recognition came much later in his native Dunbar, Scotland. 

I mentioned that we were on our way to honor the memory of another of Scotland's native sons, James Hutton, the Father of Geology; but were delighted to stumble upon John Muir's legacy in our process of wandering about these parts. I then asked for a recommendation for a lunch shop. 

We were given a few from which to choose. We thought Wishing Tree by The Sea sounded like our cup of tea. We were given some arm-waving contradictory directions and so we set out walking. First we tried the harbor area, it was by the sea, but no Wishing Tree in view.

Sue checks directions to Wishing Tree on her iPhone.
We now know it isn't by the sea, or at least the harbor. 

It is but a block or two back into town, we stroll along the edge of the shore looking in the direction in which we believed we were directed by a well-meaning local.

The view out to sea from Dunbar's seaside park

We keep walking and cut through the gate of a walled garden park. We meet with success as we walk up to the window of Wishing Tree by The Sea and order our lunch. We wait for a few minutes on the outside picnic tables, but decide it is too blustery, so we move inside the garden dining shelter.

Lunch is good. Dessert is great.

We walk back to the car on main street and head off in search of James Hutton and his geologically famous unconformity.