North Cascades Road Trip

 

Autumnal air and fall foliage on the Pilchuck.
Vine Maple turns as wild cucumber fades to pale yellow.

The official end of summer has come and gone, it is now past Labor Day.

I suggest we take a road trip up north, cut east along the Skagit River into its source in the Cascades. After Labor Day I figure the crowds have thinned down and we'll have North Cascades National Park all to ourselves. I am not always right, and this day is one of them. All The trailhead parking was in overflow on this mild Thursday. Thousands of people had the same idea that I did. Oh well, I guess we'll have to share the view.

Liberty Bell at Washington Pass,
North Cascades Scenic Highway

As I close the gate behind us, we have not decided exactly what we are going to do with our day. We could drive up to the crest of the Cascades, descend into Eastern Washington, have lunch and return over the route on which we had just traveled. Or, maybe, we could make a big loop and come back over Stephen's Pass on Highway 2. We decide that we will decide later.

We pull over at Gorge Creek and walk across the bridge spanning a 300' deep crevasse, looking down between our toes through the steel grate at the creek and rocks far below. It's a unique view, Sue says, "I'm glad I'm not afraid of heights."

Gorge Creek far below my toes

We drive over the mountains as the highway winds nestled between tall conifers, obscuring most of the mountain peaks from me as I keep my eyes on the curves. Passenger Sue marvels at brief glimpses of some rocky peaks. 

The North Cascades are touted as 'The American Alps,' though I remark as we drive that this does not really live up to the hype. "I don't think these mountains are all that 'alpiny' (if that's a word). The Alps have broad U-shaped glacial valleys, towering, barren peaks like the Matterhorn. I just don't see that landscape here. A nice place, but not a lot of destination-worthy places like Yosemite, Sequoia Redwoods or even Glacier National Park.

My one hope for a redeeming view is Washington Pass up ahead. I pull off Highway 20 into the Washington Pass Scenic Viewing Area. We are not disappointed. It is a day where the clouds have lifted, a bit hazy from proximal forest fires, but the granitic spires are out in full view.

Huckleberries along the trail give us a
showy fall foliage display.

We stand on a glacially polished platform high above the head of the Methow River Valley, admire the view and debate the geologic structures and possible mineral composition of the rocks before us. We're such excitable nerds on holiday. It's a great day to go stand on some big rocks.

We drop over the pass and follow the Methow River into Twisp. We find a picnic table at the city park alongside the river and eat PB&J and some clementine oranges from the rucksack. We consult the paper road atlas (still don't fully trust nor like using digital navigation apps). We opt to make the big loop.

We leave Twisp, headed toward Wenatchee. A stop at Costco for refueling and then we drive beside numerous apple and fruit orchards. I announce, "It's been a grand day! Let me take you out to dinner in Bavaria." 

The pedestrian street lined with Bavarian shops and eateries,
all in Leavenworth, Washington.

We find a rare parking place in Leavenworth, a town given over completely to Bavarian architecture and Bavarian themed tourist shops and restaurants. It is a tourist destination, replete with a handful of Asian couples coming to America to experience a getaway in the German Alps. Only in America!

Its schnitzel for our supper at Baren Haus

Leavenworth, Washington USA. 
The town is a tourist destination for those looking for 
a Bavarian Alpine experience.

Earlier I had remarked that the North Cascades did not resemble, nor deserve the nickname, 'The American Alps,' but now I realized; The American Alps theme must have originated from Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce. Brilliant!

Tell people this area is the American Alps and then build a town and an entire commercial structure to support the Alpine theme. And you know what? It actually works. Leavenworth is a thriving Bavarian town that sells more than its fair share of beer, schnitzel, sausage and cabbage rolls along with nutcrackers, Christmas decorations and T-shirts. Genius.