Saturday, August 26, 2017

A Far Piece From Home - Travelogue 2017v6: North Coast

Another day of easy travel, but a day that started with a hint of disappointment.  I had concluded, California has been ruined, ruined I tell you. All shot and gone to hell.  So many people crowded into the few good and special places.  Our family used to pack up and go camping on a lark some weekends.  To the coastal redwoods, state and national parks in the Sierras and Cascades.  Usually no problem finding a place to pitch the tent.  Not true any more.  The state has a camp reservation system, which makes planning easier and will eliminate the bitter disappointment of traveling far only to find a "Campground Full" sign posted at the ranger station.  Perhaps a necessary evil considering the crowded conditions and demand.  But a crimp in my care-free wilderness ranging spirit never-the-less.

To the point: for decades I had wanted to stay a night at Gold Beach State Park; a lovely and serene place to roll out my bag on the dunes at the edge of the redwood forest, listening to the surf roll ashore a stone's throw away, walking among the verdant draped vertical walls of Fern Canyon - another favorite locale and a memory spot from our honeymoon.  Gold Beach and Fern Canyon was my dream, my plan.  But it was all thwarted. One can make an online reservation for a campsite 3 months in advance.  It was a few weeks into April when I logged in to get a spot reserved in my name come July, that will be mid-week in July.  No sites available says the website.  This seems to be a case where people log on the instant they are eligible, crashing the site like they would for tickets to a Lady Gaga concert.  I tried for several days, hoping for a cancellation to leave me a space, no dice.  Time for the proverbial Plan B.  I checked on several other parks in the area, same result, everything filled up already.  Again I scoured the map for possibilities, maybe I could get something at Patrick Point State Park?  Lady luck coming through my ISP, Yes! Two sites available at Patrick Point.  I drew my credit card and quickly entered my numbers. Bingo! Confirmation for a spot at the Agate Beach Loop.

Leaving Mendocino mid-morning with the consolation of having a reservation, but joining the road that would take me close to... and then stop me short of my heart's desire, Gold Beach SP and the adjoining Fern Canyon.  Perhaps we could set up camp at Patrick Point and drive up to Fern Canyon in the late afternoon.  Alas, with the leisurely winding Highway 1 and summer-season repairs, it became apparent that it would be too much to get to Fern Canyon.  We will just have to enjoy a different part of the North Coast.

Exiting the interstate north of Eureka, we entered Patrick Pt. SP, and I immediately notice the yellow-lettered wooden sign, "Campground FULL".  I stopped at the entrance booth, "Ranger, we have reservations for Agate Loop site #22."  She checked off my name and we were waved on through.  The car in front of us had just been told that their was not room for them since they had no reservations; they might try some place else.  I could feel the frustration permeating out of that car's windows.  I shook my head and though, "Yep. The place is ruined, ruined I tell you. All shot to hell and overcrowded - sucks to be you."  


Agate Beach, Patrick Point State Park
Feeling crabby?
We're a good team.  The tent was soon popped up and anchored over the canvas ground tarp.  Camp food and anticipated clothing needed for a cool, damp night were properly arranged. 

Now, time to explore a new place.  We headed toward Agate Beach, and took the forested switch-backed trail over the edge of the cliff and down onto the pebbled beach where the sun was hanging not too far above the horizon.  We clambered around on tectonically scrunched rock faces and wiggled our toes in the agate sands.  Yet there was more to see.  We put our shoes back on and it was back up out of the clearly marked 'tsunami danger zone' to the top of the cliffs where we followed the Rim Trail over to Wedding Rock and Patrick Point.


Fractures and filled with quartz
Pleasing patterns on a cobble at Agate Beach


If the place was overcrowded with tourists and campers, it was all the more crowded with banana slugs feeding on fern fronds as the sun slipped lower in the sky.  We walked at a brisk pace in the cooling marine air to the precipice that was Wedding Rock.  A few more photos and then we scurried over to the large jagged outcrop that was Patrick Point.  This was the preferred place to be to watch the sun set, as we joined a handful of others all perched around and on top of the Patrick Pt.  Without much fanfare, the hues of orange and blue-gray faded to dusk and we stuck our chilled hands deep into our pockets and walked back to Site #22 to brush our teeth and sleep deeply under a dark forest among the dews and damps of the North Coast.  


Banana slug (Ariolimax sp.) hangs precariously from the tip of a sword fern while
out scavenging for its evening meal.
Banana Slug and the 'Sword Fern of Damocles'



A Banana Slug slips out along a fern frond
to dine on an evening meal




A beautiful end to the day at Patrick Point


It was not Gold Beach, but then again it was not a disappoint either.  I am thinking, "I am enjoying this journey of exploration with my mate", as I drift into peaceful slumber.

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