Barlow Point

 The paved portion of the Mountain Loop Highway runs east out of Granite Falls, following the course of the South Fork of the Stillaguamish River until it reaches Barlow Pass. There, at the summit of Barlow Pass, the pavement ends and the road descends to the drain of the Sauk River flowing north.

Peak rising east as seen from the top of Barlow Point

At the summit there is a trail to Barlow Point that advertised great panoramic views of both the Stillaguamish and Sauk watersheds far below. I thought I'd give it whirl since it was only 1.2 miles and the map showed a straight dotted line from trailhead to the vista point.

This trail was not flat, but it was climb over rocks and tree roots from the get go and it seemed much further than the 1.2 mile one way trip; I had to wonder if the distance was measures as the crow flies and did not account for the numerous switchbacks needed to gain the elevation to the top of the ridge. It was all uphill, one foot in front of the other. It took this old man 1 1/4 hours to climb the 1 1/4 miles. It was kind of beating, but once I started, I wanted to finish and not be defeated by the mountain's contours rising above me. It was 4 PM when I started, I knew I had about 5 hours of daylight left, but...  This climb was tougher than I expected.

The trail was heavily forested all the way.

Hike up, my heavy legs estimated 118 switchback traversed before I got to the top, and I though maybe I'd gained 1200 feet in elevation. I counted the switchbacks on the way down - there are only 39. And checking the map at the trailhead, the elevation gain was 800 feet.

Made it to the top of Barlow Point.
Stillaguamish River watershed behind me to the west.

Shadowed peaks to the west at 5:30 PM

Cheery colors await me on the rocky top of Barlow Point.

My ascent was hard on the lungs. My descent was hard on the knees. Happy to have made it to the top of Barlow Point and happy to have made the solo trek back down the side of the mountain.

I pointed my 4Runner downhill toward Granite Falls and pulled into the Thai House Restaurant, ordered Kee Mao, a chicken dish with pad Thai noodles, basil, ginger and peppers plus a pot of hot jasmine tea. A good day.

Big 4 Mountain Ice Cave

Big 4 Mountain on Mountain Loop Highway
Outside Granite Falls

 My glorious plan for the warming months of May and into June here in Washington, was to get out with my 4WD machine and explore the sights and hikes in my backyard. I'd made my first foray in May up to Darrington to scout the Mountain Loop Highway, a 55 mile partially paved car trail that links the Cascade Mountain towns of Darrington and Granite Falls with plenty of hikes into the mountains, around lakes and beside rivers and streams. I'd finished my trip to Darrington, but the MLH had yet to be opened for the season - opening estimated for around Memorial Day.

I return home to The Pilchuck from my north-end scouting trip only to have by transmission destroyed when the drain plug inexplicably rattled out, leaking all of the essential tranny fluid and stopping my forward progress. Twenty-three days later after being in solitary confinement with no transport, my 4Runner was returned with a rebuilt transmission. Eager to make up for lost time, I drove to Granite Falls on the south end of the Loop to head back into the Cascades to explore.

At the top of my list was the Big 4 Ice Cave. Big 4 Mountain, so named because its eastern face has a set of fractures that form the numeral 4 when seen in the spring and summer as the white snow-filled fracture contrasts with the dark rock. At the base of Big 4 Mountain is a talus field and large avalanche shoot that accumulates a delta shaped mound of snow. In the summer and fall, one of the numerous waterfalls which feeds into the top of the snow pile at the base of the avalanche shoot, hollows out an ice cave opening the water flows through the pile of ice at the base of the mountain.

An element of danger awaits at the end of the trail

At least five people have been killed this century by collapsing ice or rockfalls at the end of the trail. I believe most hikers disregard the danger and approach the base of Big 4 Mountain. I understand the allure, but I stayed on the trail at a safe distance as advised.

The trail from the picnic area is 1.1 miles (one way) to the ice cave. It is an easy hike, with modest elevation gain and expansive boardwalks that cross the marsh created by generations of beaver in the beautiful alpine valley. 

A large-leaf plant grows in the marsh. 
US Forest Service build boardwalks
make the marshland passable.

From the parking area one can see a handful of tiny, lacy ribbons of water cascading over the steep face of the mountain. I was eager to get a closer look, telling myself, I should not tempt fate and get too close to the danger zone at the base of the mountain where tumbling rocks or ice can smash one's head in an instance. 

The view and the end of the trail did not disappoint.

It was too early in the season for significant ice cave to have been hollowed out at the base of the accumulated avalanche snow and ice delta. But if you look close, you can see a small ice cave beginning to form at the leading edge. The cave will be enlarged through summer and fall by the action of the flowing water feeding into the snow from above.

You Ain't Goin' Nowhere

 

Clouds so swift

The rain won't lift

My gate won't close

My gears all froze

You Ain't goin' nowhere.

I've been sentenced to 18 days in solitary confinement. 

I'm a condemned man, I took the rap, served my time despite my innocence. Life isn't always fair.

It seems like half an eternity ago, but it was May 18th, the 45th anniversary of Mount St. Helens eruption...

Give me a mountain that blows

and truck that goes,

Oh no, You ain't goin' nowhere.

...I was motoring into Stanwood when I came to that hill that I always climb - no matter how steep, should've bought a jeep, before I get to town. And she just whined and didn't have the power to scoot on up. Something was not right.

Ooh, wee, Ride me high...

You ain't goin' nowhere.

I pulled over, the 'check engine' light flashed on, I knew I was in trouble. 

Ooh, wee,

You ain't goin' nowhere.

I got a lift back to my place, leaving the 4Runner on a Stanwood side street. I got back to town Monday morning and had her towed to a shop with a good reputation. I left my name and number at the counter with the ignition key. They said they were backed up with work and they would have a look as soon as they could. What could I do? I ain't goin' nowhere any how.

A couple of days later I hear from the shop; "Your transmission drain plug is missing. All of your tranny fluid drained out, you don't have the use of all your gears - it's unsafe to drive. Your transmission is damaged, we just don't know how bad."

I'm told that they don't rebuild transmissions, but they could take it out and look at it. Then they could order a rebuilt transmission and get it back to me by June 6 and it would cost me a little north of $9 grand. They recommend that I have JT's Transmission take a look at it.

I call the local Toyota dealership. They quote me labor and parts for a bit more than $5,000 - but they can not give me a date as to when they could get those parts in. Maybe a week, maybe a month - who knows? 

I call JT. He tells me around $5500 for a rebuild and he can have it done before the end of May. I get the 4Runner towed a second time, delivered to JT's shop.

***

It's now June 3, 2025. Things have not gone so swift, the clouds won't lift, I haven't gone anywhere. I haven't been off of my place for 18 days. I'm in solitary confinement. Fortunately I went to Costco the day before my drain plug rattled out and fried my transmission. I'm well enough stocked for food. But no face-to-face company. No contact with the locals. 

I kill time during this house arrest, by landscaping. I cut fallen alders for firewood, I trim the long, tall grass springing up around me covering my field, I tend my flower bed and realize I'm just raising fodder for the multitude of slugs. 

Then I realize that May 24th is Bob Dylan's birthday. I listen to Dylan. I relate to his tune, 'You Ain't Goin' Nowhere'.

I'll need to get my 4Runner back before June 18th when...

Ooh wee, that's the day my bride's gonna come,

Ooh wee, are we going to fly

Down into the easy chair!

If I got my transmission with all it gears, I'll drive down to the Seattle airport to pick up my bride. Ooh wee, ride me high!

Then on June 22nd, Grant, Kaileen and her parents will a come for a visit. I'm excited to show them around these parts.

Buy me some gears that grind

Hopin' for waterfalls and beaches to find

Ooh wee, Ride me High!

Now we're goin' somewhere!